Elaine's Blog: The Northern Lights and snowmobiles in Finnish Lapland

We stepped off the plane just as the sun was setting into the crisp Arctic air at Enontekio Airport – a dinky little place where our flight was probably the only action all day. No baggage carousels, no chaotic queues - just straight-up Lapland magic waiting to unfold.

Basically, expect to feel like you’ve stepped into the middle of a Nordic fairy tale, except this one comes with snowmobiles.

Our chariot (okay, a comfy coach) was waiting to take us on the two-and-a-half-hour journey to Kilpisjärvi, with a stop en route to collect our new best friends: thermal suits and snow boots. These bad boys were lifesavers every time we stepped outside into the Arctic chill.

Home for the next few days was the Tundrea Resort in Kilpisjärvi, nestled beside the lake and at the foot of Saana Fell. You can stay in apartments, cosy cabins, or, in our case - a glass house called a Wau!

I’d told the hubby we were in a basic hotel room and managed to keep the secret right until we walked through the door. Safe to say, it got the full “Wau” reaction.

We didn’t even have time to unpack before dashing off to the welcome meeting with our rep, held in one of the wooden Kotas dotted around the resort. These huts are a proper feature here - fully stocked with logs and a fire pit, perfect for warming up mid-adventure.

Dinner followed straight after - hearty, simple food served buffet-style, with soup, salad, bread, and a hot main (plus a vegan option). Water and berry juice were complimentary, and there was a bar for anything stronger. As we stepped outside, the Northern Lights made a shy first appearance. Not a bad way to start.

Back at our Wau house, we unpacked and made ourselves at home. Glass walls and ceilings, spiral staircase, underfloor heating, fully equipped kitchen, two bathrooms, a private sauna, and an upstairs balcony with chairs for a front-row seat to the Northern Lights.

Everything was digitally controlled via a smart home hub - lighting, mood settings, heating. The heated glass roof melted away the snow, revealing a clear view for aurora sightings. Magnificent.

Hiking, saunas and snowy views

The next morning, after a good breakfast, we had a free day before our first excursion later that evening. The rep suggested a walk to a nearby frozen waterfall, so we layered up, zipped into our suits and headed uphill from the base of Saana Fell.

The views were stunning - frozen lake behind us, glittering snow underfoot, and the softest winter sunshine bouncing off every surface.

Back at base, after another hearty meal to refuel, we made full use of our sauna (as you do), popped to the local supermarket - basically a TARDIS with everything from salopettes to sausages, and then it was time to gear up for our evening adventure...

Snowmobile safaris night and day

Kilpisjärvi sits on the Northern Lights Route - basically the VIP section for aurora-spotting. Hop on a snowmobile and cruise through the silent, snowy wilderness to a prime viewpoint, where, if skies behave, you’ll be treated to Mother Nature’s neon rave.

At 7:30pm we gathered in reception and were taken by minibus to the nearby snowmobile centre. Already suited and booted, we were given mittens, balaclavas, helmets, and overcoats for added wind protection.

After a quick safety briefing, we were off across a frozen lake - headlights beaming, snowflakes falling. The front guide led slowly at first, teaching us to lean and steer with our weight.

I was transported back to my biking days as a pillion passenger - something I haven’t done since the kids were born! Al was in his element. The thick ice beneath us felt surreal. We stopped occasionally to regroup, and after about 90 minutes reached a clearing with the Kotas in view.

Sadly, the cloud cover meant no aurora, though I caught a cheeky green flicker through the clouds. Still, warm berry juice and doughnuts around a roaring fire back at base - I wasn’t complaining.

Next morning, all geared up again (and bracing ourselves for serious windchill), we were back on snowmobiles to visit the Three Borders - where Finland, Sweden and Norway meet.

The guides insisted on overcoats due to the icy winds across the lake, and I snagged prime position behind the lead guide. As the sun rose, the temperature plummeted, and we stopped for occasional photos against the beautiful snowy backdrop.

The Three Borders is marked by a cairn on an artificial island in the Mall Strict Nature Reserve. In summer, you need a boat to get there - in winter, a snowmobile will do nicely.

Cue photos, more berry juice and doughnuts (spot a theme?), and the obligatory “run around three countries in 30 seconds” challenge.

On the way back, a different route, we passed some ice fishers and hikers in the middle of the vast lake, miles from land.

Back at base, it was time for a snow angel, a sauna warm-up, and lunch before the next adventure...

Sámi reindeer experience

Time to meet the locals - the reindeer!

A ten-minute stroll from the resort took us to a traditional Sámi reindeer farm, run by the same family for generations. One of the sons talked us through their culture, explaining how reindeer are still herded and cared for in traditional ways. They even speak their own language - completely different from Finnish!

We fed some of the orphans (adorable), met the working herd and took a sleigh ride around the farm. Santa, eat your heart out.

A show-stopping finale

Back at the Wau house, it was time to warm up in the sauna, start packing (which didn’t take long thanks to my trusty packing cubes), and enjoy our final dinner. We weren’t expecting anything more...

But Lapland had one last surprise. About half an hour after we got back, the real Northern Lights came out to play - properly. Swirling greens filled the sky for a couple of hours. It was utterly magical.

We managed a few minutes outside before the cold took over, then flicked on the heated glass roof and watched the mesmerising aurora show from our bed. What a send-off.

Kilpisjärvi really was something special; remote, peaceful, and packed with once-in-a-lifetime moments. From snowmobile thrills and the silence of the wilderness to standing where three countries meet and warming up in our little glass cabin - this was a trip I’ll never forget.

If you’re considering Lapland but want something more off-the-beaten track (and with fewer crowds), I’d definitely recommend this one. Just don’t forget your warmest socks and thermals.